Camping in France Part 1
Camping in France Part 1
I arrive early, as always. Weddings run on chaos, but photography doesn’t forgive lateness. The bride is upstairs, about to come down a narrow staircase. Her white dress fills the space, embroidered red roses climbing the fabric like something alive. She wears a band of flowers in her hair, not quite a tiara, but close enough. Behind her, her sister giggles nervously, hands clasped, eyes shining.
This matters.
The moment before things begin always matters.
Downstairs the groom waits, surrounded by family, energy buzzing like static. When the bride appears, the noise softens for just a second. Then the music starts and we’re off.
The church ceremony unfolds as expected — candles, crucifix, priest murmuring calmly while the bride and groom bow their heads. It’s formal, restrained, familiar. I do what I’m paid to do: anticipate, frame, disappear.
And then it’s over.
“So what are we doing now?” I ask Sofia.
“Now we go to the registry office.”
“Wait. I was told the wedding was at two o’clock.”
“It is. But first we get the certificate. Then Toma and Natalia can get married.”
“But they’ll already be officially married.”
“It’s our way,” she says simply. “There are none of our traditions at the registry office.”
“None?”
“Well… maybe some. You’ll see.”
That intrigues me.
The registry office looks like every other one I’ve ever photographed — a block of offices with a token arch outside for photos. A million weddings, all the same pictures, just different faces. Depressing, really. But predictable. And predictable is manageable.
We park. Guests mill around in small groups. The bride and groom stay in the car. I’ve noticed couples often do that — building tension, maybe, or just keeping warm. I wander, take a few candid shots. It keeps me busy, and guests love it. Standing around doing nothing makes me itchy.
The best men begin arranging people in two lines along the path. I climb onto a low wall behind them, camera ready.
Suddenly, music.
Lively, unapologetic.
The couple walk down the path, musicians close behind. Everyone claps and cheers as they march into the building in time with the tune.
Inside, instead of quiet chairs and polite coughing, there’s dancing. The music doesn’t stop. The waiting room becomes a party. Full volume, full joy.
Then a door opens.
A man in a black suit steps out.
“We’re trying to perform a wedding here. Could you stop the music and show some
respect?”
The music stops instantly. People glance around, sheepish, finding chairs, studying their fingernails.
“What noise?”
Eventually it’s our turn. We file in quietly. Chairs scrape. Someone coughs.
The celebrant looks up.
“Ah. Michael. You again?”
“Yes. Me again.”
“Well, you know the procedure. Take your usual place.”
I stand by a potted plant on a pedestal and remind myself not to step backwards.
The ceremony is exactly what it always is: straight-laced, predictable, efficient. I take the stock photos. It’s done. As we leave, the assistant throws open the doors and the musicians immediately strike up again, this time leading us out into the car park. The celebrant buries his face in his hands.
He never had a chance.
We do the arch photos — it’s the law — while vodka shots are handed out from the back of an estate car. A mini bar, fully stocked.
Guests for the next wedding arrive. Two prim ladies in twin sets and pearls step out of a car. One of the Romanians runs over instantly with glasses and a bottle.
“You want vodka?”
The lady in green panics, vigorously shaking her hand.
“Oh noooo, thank you, you’re very kind, but no.”
Undeterred, he turns to the other.
“You want vodka? You have vodka. Is wedding.”
I’d heard that line before.
Next stop is a hotel reception hall — the “proper” wedding. Guests are already there, those not interested in registry office formalities. I scout the room, note positions, imagine where things might happen. It rarely works out exactly like that.
“They’re coming!” Sofia shouts.
Outside again. Every arrival must be documented. That’s my brief.
Inside, there’s no altar, no crucifix. Just the priest, standing with everyone gathered around him in a loose circle. I don’t understand a word he’s saying, but it clearly matters.
Without warning, he picks up two plates and smashes them on the floor.
I jump. Everyone else stays calm.
The best men step forward. Toma is handed a dustpan. Natalia, a brush. Together they kneel and clean up the mess.
“It’s symbolic,” Sofia whispers. “From now on they carry life’s burdens together.”
Everyone cheers. The priest fades away. His job is done.
Self-appointed barmen begin circulating with vodka. Children run screaming between tables. The party has begun.
The hall looks like a school gym stripped of its equipment. A stage at one end. Musicians setting up microphones and amplifiers — somehow louder than before.
Three long rows of tables. Four people per table. Each table stocked with vodka, whiskey, red wine, white wine. I glance at the children and wonder what they’re drinking.
I photograph. The girls pout, duck faces in full force. They don’t need to. Just smile — I’m a professional. The men pose with raised vodka glasses. No duck faces there. Just confidence.
An announcement. Cheers. The band plays. Everyone turns — not toward the stage, but toward the back.
Food arrives.
A lot of food.
“Mister Fotograf,” someone says, grabbing my arm. “You eat with us. You take good foto?”
“Yes. Loads.”
“You good man. Come. We eat.”
He fills my plate until the pattern disappears. I later learn he’s Toma’s father.
“You want vodka?”
This isn’t a question.
“You are family now. You have vodka.”
The food is incredible. I try everything. My mother was right — you won’t know unless you try.
Music starts. Dancing. More vodka. Guests grab me, spin me around, demand photos. Men slap my shoulder. Pose. Click. Move on.
An hour later: another announcement.
More food.
That was just the first course.
“How long does this wedding go on?” I ask Sofia.
“We’ve just started. Two more courses. Then cake.”
“I don’t think I can keep going.”
“Ah. You need vodka.”
By evening, everyone is loosened, oiled, joyful. The band gives way to a DJ. The tempo lifts. Older guests sit and watch. The young ones whirl.
And then it happens.
A stumble. A drink knocked. A shove. A shove back.
The music plays on, but the dancing stops. A circle forms. Fists fly.
You can’t help but watch.
People have been doing this forever.
Men pull them apart. This is a wedding. Take it outside.
They sit on a low wall, breathing hard. Watched. Slowly, one stands, offers his hand. The other takes it. They hug.
Relief.
I don’t photograph this.
By now I’ve been working since seven in the morning. It’s ten at night. Fifteen hours. Enough.
I pack my kit and leave.
A hundred yards down the road I stop and turn back. The music is still there, faint now. I let the night take over.
It was a great wedding.
A lot of fun.
But I’m glad they’re not all like that.
And then it’s over.
“So what are we doing now?” I ask Sofia.
“Now we go to the registry office.”
“Wait. I was told the wedding was at two o’clock.”
“It is. But first we get the certificate. Then Toma and Natalia can get married.”
“But they’ll already be officially married.”
“It’s our way,” she says simply. “There are none of our traditions at the registry office.”
“None?”
“Well… maybe some. You’ll see.”
That intrigues me.
The registry office looks like every other one I’ve ever photographed — a block of offices with a token arch outside for photos. A million weddings, all the same pictures, just different faces. Depressing, really. But predictable. And predictable is manageable.
We park. Guests mill around in small groups. The bride and groom stay in the car. I’ve noticed couples often do that — building tension, maybe, or just keeping warm. I wander, take a few candid shots. It keeps me busy, and guests love it. Standing around doing nothing makes me itchy.
The best men begin arranging people in two lines along the path. I climb onto a low wall behind them, camera ready.
Suddenly, music.
Lively, unapologetic.
The couple walk down the path, musicians close behind. Everyone claps and cheers as they march into the building in time with the tune.
Inside, instead of quiet chairs and polite coughing, there’s dancing. The music doesn’t stop. The waiting room becomes a party. Full volume, full joy.
Then a door opens.
A man in a black suit steps out.
“We’re trying to perform a wedding here. Could you stop the music and show some respect?”
The music stops instantly. People glance around, sheepish, finding chairs, studying their fingernails.
“What noise?”
Eventually it’s our turn. We file in quietly. Chairs scrape. Someone coughs.
The celebrant looks up.
“Ah. Michael. You again?”
“Yes. Me again.”
“Well, you know the procedure. Take your usual place.”
I stand by a potted plant on a pedestal and remind myself not to step backwards.
The ceremony is exactly what it always is: straight-laced, predictable, efficient. I take the stock photos. It’s done. As we leave, the assistant throws open the doors and the musicians immediately strike up again, this time leading us out into the car park. The celebrant buries his face in his hands.
He never had a chance.
We do the arch photos — it’s the law — while vodka shots are handed out from the back of an estate car. A mini bar, fully stocked.
Guests for the next wedding arrive. Two prim ladies in twin sets and pearls step out of a car. One of the Romanians runs over instantly with glasses and a bottle.
“You want vodka?”
The lady in green panics, vigorously shaking her hand.
“Oh noooo, thank you, you’re very kind, but no.”
Undeterred, he turns to the other.
“You want vodka? You have vodka. Is wedding.”
I’d heard that line before.
Next stop is a hotel reception hall — the “proper” wedding. Guests are already there, those not interested in registry office formalities. I scout the room, note positions, imagine where things might happen. It rarely works out exactly like that.
“They’re coming!” Sofia shouts.
Outside again. Every arrival must be documented. That’s my brief.
Inside, there’s no altar, no crucifix. Just the priest, standing with everyone gathered around him in a loose circle. I don’t understand a word he’s saying, but it clearly matters.
Without warning, he picks up two plates and smashes them on the floor.
I jump. Everyone else stays calm.
The best men step forward. Toma is handed a dustpan. Natalia, a brush. Together they kneel and clean up the mess.
“It’s symbolic,” Sofia whispers. “From now on they carry life’s burdens together.”
Everyone cheers. The priest fades away. His job is done.
Self-appointed barmen begin circulating with vodka. Children run screaming between tables. The party has begun.
The hall looks like a school gym stripped of its equipment. A stage at one end. Musicians setting up microphones and amplifiers — somehow louder than before.
Three long rows of tables. Four people per table. Each table stocked with vodka, whiskey, red wine, white wine. I glance at the children and wonder what they’re drinking.
I photograph. The girls pout, duck faces in full force. They don’t need to. Just smile — I’m a professional. The men pose with raised vodka glasses. No duck faces there. Just confidence.
An announcement. Cheers. The band plays. Everyone turns — not toward the stage, but toward the back.
Food arrives.
A lot of food.
“Mister Fotograf,” someone says, grabbing my arm. “You eat with us. You take good foto?”
“Yes. Loads.”
“You good man. Come. We eat.”
He fills my plate until the pattern disappears. I later learn he’s Toma’s father.
“You want vodka?”
This isn’t a question.
“You are family now. You have vodka.”
The food is incredible. I try everything. My mother was right — you won’t know unless you try.
Music starts. Dancing. More vodka. Guests grab me, spin me around, demand photos. Men slap my shoulder. Pose. Click. Move on.
An hour later: another announcement.
More food.
That was just the first course.
“How long does this wedding go on?” I ask Sofia.
“We’ve just started. Two more courses. Then cake.”
“I don’t think I can keep going.”
“Ah. You need vodka.”
By evening, everyone is loosened, oiled, joyful. The band gives way to a DJ. The tempo lifts. Older guests sit and watch. The young ones whirl.
And then it happens.
A stumble. A drink knocked. A shove. A shove back.
The music plays on, but the dancing stops. A circle forms. Fists fly.
You can’t help but watch.
People have been doing this forever.
Men pull them apart. This is a wedding. Take it outside.
They sit on a low wall, breathing hard. Watched. Slowly, one stands, offers his hand. The other takes it. They hug.
Relief.
I don’t photograph this.
By now I’ve been working since seven in the morning. It’s ten at night. Fifteen hours. Enough.
I pack my kit and leave.
A hundred yards down the road I stop and turn back. The music is still there, faint now. I let the night take over.
It was a great wedding.
A lot of fun.
But I’m glad they’re not all like that.
Captain Leonard Roswell (Eastfield Road 2009)
Pegden Part 2
Pegden Part 1
After the police raided a few times and camped outside the crack house for a while. The crackheads were gone. The landlord leapt in and stripped the house of all the furniture. Ripped and stained sofas and armchairs piled up outside. Mattresses that could harbour new life topped the pile. The refuse truck turned up and each item was crushed in the jaws of the truck. I enjoyed watching that. Even knowing that even the poorest would turn their noses up. I felt a little twinge as another piece of furniture was destroyed. Then there was silence.
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I struggle through the door with a speaker and microphone stand, Dill is already at the bar. I hear him ask for "Two pints of Stella and two double vodka and limes."
Did you ever read "Young Man With A Horn"?
Can't say I have is it relevent?
I appreciate your effort. Thanks for the tutorial.
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My man bursts through the door. His hair disheveled and and a wry grin on his face. Under his arm is a black speckled Bantam. he stands swaying, vaguely proud of himself. He's begging me to ask the question without him saying a word. I give in.
It's cold and the start of another week. I drive Zed to work. Pulling up I notice the window is slightly open on an abandoned car. A black face peers out and a hand waves.
Zed is one excellent human.
I had for the corner shop to get my paper. Mrs Slow is on the till. My heart sinks. The queue is already five people deep. I grab my paper and join the queue. It's painful to watch her doing everything in slow motion, slowly, methodically analysing each item carefully before presenting it to the bar code reader. Nothing happens. She turns the item round slowly. Still nothing. She pulls the item closer to herself to have a good look at it all round to find the bar code. She can't find it. Her hand is covering it. Eventually she finds it and thinking very carefully decides which way round to hold the item. The reader beeps. She then decides how she is going to place the scanned item in the bag. People in front of me are tapping their feet, shuffling and generally seething quietly. It takes what seems like hours to scan the four items. Then we get to the money. Decisions decisions what combination of coins would be most appropriate to give to the customer. She selects a few coins thinks better of it, drops them back in the till and selects a few more, then counts them from one hand to the other and counts them again slowly into the waiting customers hand. We're done hooray"! Next. But no she has to enquire about the customers children. Internally I'm screaming, "For Gods sake..." The customer well aware of the queue behind her is trying to leave but Mrs Slow leans over the top of the till to impart more words of comfort and sympathy. Fi9nally she customer drags herself away from the pointless conversation and Mrs Slow steadies herself before looking up to the next customer who sprints forward as fast as possible throwing his two packets of chocolate and a can of drink onto the counter. his speed in unnecessary. it wont make any difference. it will still take ten minutes to scan three items. I muse that at this rate I'll have time to read all five sections of the paper, do the crossword and the soduko and still have time to return the paper to the shelf and leave before I get to pay. By now there are five more customers behind me. Mrs Slow looks up at the lengthening queue and places her hand under the counter and rings a bell for assistance. No one comes, they are all behind the mirror door laughing.
My man isn't a particularly big guy, but he has no fear. Whether it's the alcohol or the drugs I don't know. He walks the streets with confidence. But trouble inevitably finds him. He wont back down. he wont look the other way, if someone gives him shit he'll deal it straight back at them and damn the consequences. He will disappear for a week or two and come back announcing his return from yet another hospital visit where they've patched him up again.
My man walks in. He wearing a thobe, a long shirt favoured by Muslims, it has gold embroidery round the neck and cuffs. No collar. Brown open toed sandals peek out from below his shirt. He stands there silent swaying gently as if trying to take stock of the situation. He mouths a few words bu no words come out. I think he has finally lost it. Grabbing hold of the back of a chair, he steadies himself and tries to speak again. "I got myself arrested again. They've just let me out."
The results from my Psych Eval are in. Turns out I'm an Introvert. I always told people I was an extrovert based on all the abt shit crazy dangerous stuff I've done. But really, it seems, I'm an Introvert. Thinking about it, it kinda makes sense. I don't like parties. If I go to parties I am either in the garden or in the Kitchen. If I go to a show and there are looking for volounteers to go up on stage I visibly shrink into my chair, at the back, hoping I wont be noticed. I never sit in the front row of anything. Even when I got married I rather hoped I could have a seat at the back and just watch. I could have a body double who stands at the front with my wife and does all the "I do" stuff.
You two are perfect together. The dog is awesome... I want one just like him!
She stood there in clothes she hadn't the energy to put on properly, her top hanging off her upper arm, like she had no strength left to push it up the rest of the way up over her shoulders, and she'd forgotten how to tie shoe laces. She was floppy like a rag doll swaying this way and that. forward and backward.
My main man from the parallel universe of drugs and depravity, staggers into my gaff. he's stinking of booze and weed. His hair is a mess and his clothes filthy. He's followed by a petite mouthy girl, equally dishevelled and sporting that fashionable heroin chic look. "Tell him then. Tell him. tell him about your dog." she whines in a particularly grating voice.
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